A Visit to a Secret Wartime Hospital in Slovenia

Slovenia is always a country where I challenge my fears, enjoy great food and learn a lot. And, oh boy, did I learn this time! Originally from a place where the World Word 2 was just a distant fact, my knowledge of the facts that took place during that period, especially in the former Eastern Block, is quite limited. That changed slightly after my visit to a secret wartime hospital in Slovenia.

The Slovene Partisans were part of an anti-Nazi resistance movement, led by the Yugoslav revolutionary communists. In the Cerkno region, I had the chance to visit a secret Partisan hospital called Partizanska Bolnica Franja (pronounced partizanska bolneetsa franya). It is hidden up in the mountains near the village of Dolenji Novaki, and when I say hidden, I mean it.

Franja Partisan Hospital was created with the loyal help of the local community and operated from 1943 until the end of WW2, in 1945. In order to reach it, soldiers had to walk uphill alongside a deep gorge and caves. Soldiers guarded the path 24/7 and today there’s still a replica of the bunker where they used to watch for invaders. To keep the hospital’s location a complete secret, the wounded were blindfolded before being transported by soldiers who, many times, struggled with the weight and the rough path.

Today, you can drive to the entrance, where you’ll buy the €5 ticket. From the car park to the hospital itself, it’s about 10 to 15 minutes’ walk. As you walk up, you can visualise how hard it must have been in those times, especially carrying wounded soldiers. On the way to the hospital, you can also read testimony from the soldiers and patients who were treated there. Some are very heartwarming.

This was the best equipped Partisan hospital and it had several cabins built gradually, some for surgery, others for x-ray, kitchen or dorms, for example. It treated 578 patients in total, especially the more seriously wounded. Sadly, a huge flood destroyed the original cabins in 2007. But due to its cultural and humanitarian importance, the hospital was rebuilt to its original design, following old drawings and documents.

From 1943 until the end of the war, Dr Franja Bojc Bidovec, a female graduate from the University of Ljubljana, as a practitioner and managed the hospital. She later worked at military hospitals in Slovenia, dying in 1985.

A curious fact about the hospital is that, supposedly, the Nazi enemies knew of its existence. However, they weren’t able to find it. To avoid being found they had, for instance, to ensure all wood used for cooking and other activities was completely dry. This would avoid smoke.

When heard about the hospital, I had absolutely no idea what to expect. I thought we’d be visiting some ruins and that was all. Franja Partisan Hospital, is far from being a pile of bricks and rocks – of which there’s none. It symbolises the struggle, self-sacrifice and comradery that bring people together during hard times. I can actually say that during the short time I was there I had a huge and interesting history lesson and books haven’t taught me.

HOW TO VISIT FRANJA PARTISAN HOSPITAL

The hospital is located in the Cerkno region, 55km from the capital Ljubljana and 110km from the city of Udine, in Italy. There’s no public transport to the hospital, so you must have your own car or hire a taxi.

Entry costs €5 for adults and students pay €3.

Opening Hours: 9am to 6pm daily, from 1st April to 30th of September; 9am to 4pm daily,  from 1st to 31st October. It opens occasionally from 1st November to 31st March, depending on weather conditions.

Disclaimer: My visit to Franja Partisan Hospital was part of the Pure Nature press trip. However, all opinions and long sentences are my own.