One Day in Muscat, Oman

I arrived in Muscat on a Friday evening, and went straight to my hotel. The city is surrounded by a series of rugged mountains which separate it in several different areas, and is bathed by the Indian Ocean waters. My hotel was in the Ruwi area, which is inland and is sort of the local “Little India”, for it is where most migrants from the subcontinent live. The small Sultan Al-Qaboos mosque is located on its high street, and the area is the city’s main transport hub – buses to the whole country and Dubai leave from here, as well as shared vans.

The following morning I went for a walk in Muttrah, a 10 minute cab or shared van ride from Ruwi, and enjoyed a walk along its attractive corniche (seaside avenue). It is here that cruise ships stop year round, and you will see some cruise passengers in buying frankincense and other souvenirs in the hassle-free local souq. Locals are friendly and you will not get unwanted attention.

I kept walking along the corniche and took the long seaside avenue that leads to Old Muscat. After the 3km plus walk, I was in the older part of the capital, where the already present old Arabia feel becomes even stronger.

Unlike Ruwi and Muttrah, Old Muscat is like a small town where time decided to tick at a slower pace. You will see children playing football and the elderly enjoying a chat on the small patches of grass, and there aren’t as many cars around. It is also here that the sultan Qaboos built his 1970’s palace – a colourful, modern-ish building views over the Indian Ocean and nearby forts. Talking about forts, I actually asked one of the guards at Al-Mirani Fort if I could go inside it, but it is only accessible to members of the government or heads of States on official visit. Surely they would not keep it so inaccessible if it wasn’t something special!

In Old Muscat you will also be able to visit the heritage Omani-French Museum, located at the former residence of the French consul Bait Faransa, which celebrates the historical friendship between the two countries. Some of the pictures there displayed will give you a flavour of how things used to be in times long gone. On my way back to Muttrah, to my surprise, I was offered a lift by a cab driver, who refused to take any payment from me. Any more of those around?? 😀

The lift was to Muttrah, where I started my walk. There, after a wizz around the souq, which I had already visited and enjoyed, I took another cab (paid one this time!) and went to the more upmarket Al Qurum area, where most luxury hotels and, of course, some of the city’s famous beaches are located. After mooching around a couple of shopping centres, and after a strong cappuccino (sorry peeps, but traditional Turkish coffee are rare here!), I went to enjoy the sunset on the beach.

I walked around 3km, enjoying the breeze and practising one of my favourite sports: people watching. Youngsters playing football, women wearing the headscarf jogging, men in their robe walking beside others bare chested. It was an interesting experience. As far as I remember, it was my first Indian Ocean sunset, and it was unforgettable.

On the walk back I passed by the Intercontinental hotel, and the newly open Royal Opera House Muscat. Of course, I had to walk another 3km before walking past these buildings. It was a long but very enjoyable day. And as creature of habits, I re-visited some of these spots on my next days in city. And the more I saw these same sights, the more I wanted to see them again. Soon, inshallah!

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